Palms for Cyprus: which one to choose
Palms instantly give character to a yard, a pool, a hotel entrance or a street. They don't all suit every place, though: some take frost and drought, while others want a warm, coastal spot and regular watering.
In this guide we split the palms we grow into three groups. Each card shows the typical final height, the lowest temperature it tolerates and its water needs, with a link to the plant's page and the sizes available.
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How to choose
- Cold: winters are mild in coastal and lowland areas. Inland, where frost falls, and in the mountains, choose palms that tolerate temperatures below zero. The temperature on each card helps you compare.
- Final height: some palms grow over 15 m. Think about cables, roofs and the distance from the house before planting.
- One trunk or many: single-trunk palms give a vertical line and shade up high. Clumping palms, like the Mediterranean fan palm, fill space like a large shrub.
- Water: hardy palms get by on little water once established. Tropical palms need regular summer watering.
- Spines: Phoenix palms, the Mediterranean fan palm, Brahea and Washingtonia have spines on their leaf stalks. Near pools and play areas, choose spineless palms.
Hardy palms, for every area
They take heat, wind, little water and the frost of most areas of Cyprus. The safe choice inland and for low-maintenance gardens.
The Mediterranean fan palm: low, multi-stemmed, slow-growing and very tough. Removing the suckers gives it the shape of a small tree.
The blue form of the fan palm, with silvery-blue fans. Needs full sun for strong colour.
Blue palm with silver fans, for sunny, dry and windy spots. Slow-growing.
Tall, slim trunk and fast growth. For avenues and large spaces.
The queen palm: arching, feathery leaves, a grey trunk, no spines. For gardens, parks and streets.
Tropical palms, for coastal and lowland areas
They give the most tropical look, but need a mild winter, a sheltered spot and regular summer watering. Ideal for seaside homes, hotels and around pools.
The Alexandra palm: slim, smooth trunk and feathery leaves with silvery undersides. No spines.
The Bangalow palm, a little more cold-tolerant. Red fruit that attracts birds.
The foxtail palm: bushy leaves like a fox's tail. Striking in rows or groups, no spines.
The triangle palm: the leaves grow in three rows and form a triangle. For entrances and as a feature plant.
Clumping palm with slender, curving trunks. Has spines at the base of the leaves.
Small palms and palm-like plants for pots and yards
For balconies, courtyards, entrances and around pools, where you want a tropical look without great height. Zamia and ponytail palm are not true palms, but give a similar look.
Pygmy date palm: a small, elegant palm with fine leaves. Suits pots, courtyards and pools. Has spines at the base of the leaves.
A cycad with thick, velvety leaves, very slow-growing. Needs part shade. Toxic if eaten.
Ponytail palm: swollen trunk base and drooping leaves like a ponytail. Drought-tolerant, good in a pot.
Planting
- Palms root best when the soil is warm, from spring to early autumn. Container plants can be planted at other times too, with careful watering.
- Plant at the same depth as in the pot, not deeper. The trunk doesn't want soil around it.
- The soil must drain well. In heavy clay, add sand or gravel, because standing water rots the roots.
- Stake large palms for the first year, until they root and the wind no longer rocks them.
- When moving and planting, protect the crown (the bud), where new leaves come from. If it is damaged, a single-trunk palm does not grow a new crown.
Watering, feeding and pruning
- Watering: deep and regular in the first year. After that, less often and deep, letting the soil surface dry between waterings. Tropical palms need more water in summer than hardy ones.
- Don't pour water into the crown of the palm. Water at the roots.
- Feeding: from spring to autumn, with a balanced or palm fertiliser, always on moist soil.
- Yellowing older leaves usually mean a lack of potassium or magnesium, or too much water. A palm fertiliser helps.
- Pruning: cut only dry and fully yellow leaves. Don't cut green leaves for a 'clean' look, because the palm needs them to feed.
Watch out for pests
Two insects attack palms in the Mediterranean: the red palm weevil (Rhynchophorus ferrugineus), mainly on Phoenix palms, and the palm moth Paysandisia archon, which also attacks the Mediterranean fan palm. Their larvae eat the inside of the trunk and crown, so the damage shows late.
Check the crown regularly. Central leaves that droop or look chewed, holes with sawdust at the base of the leaves, or a crown that 'opens up' need immediate inspection by a specialist.
Frequently asked questions
- Which palm tolerates the most cold?
- Of the palms we grow, the Mediterranean fan palm and Brahea armata take the frost of most areas of Cyprus. Washingtonia and the queen palm come next. The Archontophoenix palms, the foxtail and the triangle palm need a mild winter.
- Which palm suits a pot or a small space?
- The pygmy date palm (Phoenix roebelenii) and the Mediterranean fan palm stay small and suit large pots. Zamia and the ponytail palm give a similar look in even less space.
- Which palms have no spines?
- The Archontophoenix palms, the queen palm, the foxtail and the triangle palm have no spines. They are the best choice near pools and where children play.
- How fast do palms grow?
- Washingtonia, the queen palm and the Archontophoenix palms grow fairly fast with good watering. The Mediterranean fan palm, Brahea armata and zamia grow slowly. That is why larger sizes are preferred for instant effect in projects.
- When is the best time to plant a palm?
- From spring to early autumn, when the soil is warm and roots grow fast. In the first year, water deeply and regularly.
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Need palms for a home, hotel or public project? Send us the space and quantities and we will suggest species and sizes from our nursery.
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